Google will prevent news websites treating incognito mode browsers differently, which may make paywalls harder: https://whatsnewinpublishing.com/google-unlocks-33-of-publisher-paywalls-on-july-30-this-is-what-happens-next/
Perhaps the best approach is to provide some free/indexable content to build your brand, but charge for the rest (like Stratechery or LWN)?