Google will prevent news websites treating incognito mode browsers differently, which may make paywalls harder: https://whatsnewinpublishing.com/google-unlocks-33-of-publisher-paywalls-on-july-30-this-is-what-happens-next/
Perhaps the best approach is to provide some free/indexable content to build your brand, but charge for the rest (like Stratechery or LWN)?
miniblog.
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It's fascinating to see the adversarial relationship between the developers of Incognito Mode and those trying to detect it. JS is a very rich environment with a ton of options.
https://www.bleepingcomputer.com/news/google/google-chrome-incognito-mode-can-still-be-detected-by-these-methods/